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23r01

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23r01 last won the day on February 21

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  1. It's a classic and fairly simple algorithm. Have you tried Google? Here is an example of a pseudo-code implementation from Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Insertion_sort.
  2. I can not see what you wrote that advertising censorship of the forum. But, if you want to turn off the lighting regularly, unplug the lighting connection. Most fans have 2 connections: one for electricity to rotate and one for lighting - note that you disconnect that of the lighting and not the electrical connection. If these are the rare and super primitive fans that only get one Molex connection, then you can choose between enduring them as they are or replacing them with other fans of the same size. Noctua are known for their good, quiet and not very expensive fans.
  3. Since it turns out to be a known phenomenon of WD the drive is probably OK. Nor is it the typical click a drive makes when it tends to die. Even so, this "feature" sounds like a synonym to a bug in the internal firmware of the disk that they have not yet fixed ... I can attest that I have had a 12TB drive of this type for several years and it does not make clicks. I just bought and assembled another 18-liter drive yesterday (also from the Gold series) and it also does not make clicks. In addition, I have 2 2Tra drives from the original Hitachi series that have been working on my computer almost 24/7 since 2009 and 2011 respectively (Hitachi are so good) with no clicks. And yes, my computer is so old. It was assembled in 88-89 and has since undergone periodic and gradual upgrades. Not that any part of it has remained since, but it has never been completely replaced. If WD say it's a common phenomenon then it's okay. Make backups.
  4. The word "automatic" was in the quotes for a reason: it is clear that no prosecution is automatic, but once convicted of a criminal offense the very conviction is proof for the civil prosecution. His chances of being eligible for such a lawsuit are low. As for the victims' money, I said they would not get it all back, but they would get something. They do not need a super-expensive attorney for a lawsuit of this type, and they can be incorporated and sued jointly while sharing expenses and income (in any case, when there are multiple claims in the same matter, they usually consolidate cases). The victims can certainly sue him personally and not just the bankrupt company. The legal screen of a limited liability company is not valid when the owner or controlling shareholder knowingly performs fraud through the company. The fact that he was personally convicted indicates that the court was already convinced that such a fraud had taken place, and therefore it also serves as a reference for raising the legal screen to sue in person. As for the "persecution" you are talking about: I do not mean something malicious and illegal. Assuming he sues a citizen, loses and is required to pay some high sum of money, the executioner will confiscate every penny he can lay his hand on until his money runs out or until the amount is paid. If he is unable to pay the amount in full, which is likely to happen given the circumstances and the fact that the amount will be plus slaughter interest, he will have to undergo a capability investigation in which he is required to prove that the money does not exist. In this investigation, they will try to locate "hidden" funds, possibly with the help of private investigators (if there is a reasonable suspicion that he is actually raising significant sums) and take everything they find. And if that is still not enough, he will have to go bankrupt, which is an unpleasant situation in which the state will take all the money, salary, etc. except for a small living allowance and impose all sorts of restrictions on him, such as a ban on leaving the country, bank account restrictions, etc. After some time in this situation (if the money is not returned) judges tend to pity the bankrupt and close the case, but such a person who got into his situation due to criminal fraud will not get the dismissal easily. The example you gave of claims between banks is unrelated and ancient. Today there are anti-money laundering laws in most western countries (partly because of cases like the one you brought), and they will definitely be asked where the money comes from if he tries to put a large amount of cash into the banking system. Money laundering, that is, turning money obtained through illegal means into legal money where things can be bought, is a complicated and expensive process. If you suddenly "make" large sums of money you can not "claim" that you earned it in any way: you have to prove where the money came from or endure the wrath of the authorities. In 2021 with the electronic and technological means, the authorities have become quite good at discovering such funds. Regarding obsolescence: it is unrelated. The statute of limitations means that if you have committed an offense and have not acted against you for a certain period of time (depending on the offense) then it is not possible to start acting against you. In this case they acted, judged and punished, and therefore the statute of limitations is irrelevant. If you're talking about the relatively new law that says financial information about you "resets" after seven years, then you are unfortunately a little innocent. Banks and credit companies have a long memory, and they use the law that "granting credit is at the sole discretion of the bank" in a liberal manner. I saw up close (not my personal experience, thank God) what happened to someone who quarreled with a bank and tried after many years to open an account there. The bank refused, even though it was blatantly illegal. He turned to another bank and received another refusal. After the second refusal he threatened to apply to the Supervisor of Banks, and then agreed to open an account for him, but to this day (years later) he does not receive a credit line or a credit card that is not a debit.
  5. I'm not a lawyer, but I'm pretty sure there's a misunderstanding here about punishment. He received 10 years in prison and a fine of 400 shekels, which he must pay to the state. This is beyond what he has to pay to the victims. Once convicted of a criminal lawsuit the victims can sue him in a civil lawsuit, in which they win "automatically" because his loss in the criminal lawsuit serves as proof of their justification, and get their money back with interest and linkage. This is at least the theory: apparently the money is not in his possession and therefore he cannot return it even if he wants to. He was not convicted of theft but of investor fraud - in other words, he took money from them to invest in "safe" channels and instead spent it on risky and failed investments. The money he pocketed is probably a fraction of what he actually took from his victims. Although probably the people who cheated will not see their money back, until the court finishes with him he will lose all his property and drown in debts for the rest of his life. By the way, a person who has smuggled money to the whole world and the tax authorities have caught him, will not be able to touch the money in life - once he tries to withdraw the money you can torpedo it and take it from him. Contrary to what is seen in movies, there are very few places in the world today where you can really hide from the law. What would he do: flee to the jungles of Colombia and live in a hut? He will have to operate on a cash basis because he will not be able to withdraw money from the bank and no one will give him a credit card. Is it possible to buy a house in banknotes today? car? A flight ticket to the jungles of Colombia? These are the things you do before you are caught, when you still have access to money. If he had the opportunity to escape he would have done so before the conviction and imprisonment.
  6. Clicks from the drive are almost always an indication of a mechanical problem, usually the heads are not working properly or collide with the plates with the information. This is why it reduces friction.) The click is probably stronger than you think. A faulty disk, especially from this series, is a rare phenomenon, but it happens. For this there is a warranty - use it and replace the disk. For backups, instead of buying 2 disks You can back up to the cloud.Microsoft (OneDrive), Google (Google Drive) and Dropbox have paid plans that depending on the volume you need save you up to 2Tra in the cloud.The advantage of this is that even if your computer and even the whole house, God forbid, go up in flames Anyway. Remember that usually as a private user you do not need a full backup (Ghost) of the disk but only back up specific files. Downloaded software you can download again, operating system and software installed you will in any case have to reinstall and in fact you only need the backup for files created on your computer and will have a hard time recovering - documents, excel, music, licenses, saved games and so on. If you still want a full disk backup, which you can restore in one go, you will need another disk of the same size. This is a story in itself - an internal disk will not protect you from theft or (for example) if a cup of coffee is spilled on your computer, an external disk is slower and exposed to "natural disasters" (blows, falls and coffee cups), you will need to find time to back up regularly The disk and it can take several hours, if the disk goes slowly (not suddenly) and you do not notice you may get into a situation where you back up broken information and destroy the backup, and more. Companies for which backup is important Towels on external media (tape) or pay a professional company for massive cloud backup. It's expensive and as a private user I do not think you are there. Use the cloud.
  7. Do you see the disk in the BIOS when you turn on the computer? Does he recognize it, that is, show the model number and / or size? If not, first check the connections: Is the disk well connected to the data cable and the power cable (loose or crooked connection)? Are the cables connected to the board and supply in a good way? Are they intact, meaning the cable does not look torn and the connectors at the end are well connected? You can try to buy a "technician cable" which is actually a usb to sata converter (and a suitable power cable): it will cost tens of shekels and will allow you to connect the disk as an external disk and bypass all the wires and internal connections. If the computer is unable to read the disk in this way then the disk will probably crash. Assuming the computer does recognize the disk: What use are you making of it that issues the error message? Does this happen during formatting or when Windows goes up? Were you able to format it and now you can not access it? How to format (what settings)? By the way BIOS, check there that your disk is tuned to AHCI and not RAID. The disk may really be faulty, but you should check the other options.
  8. AMD has always given a high power ratio to cost compared to Intel (i.e. you got more for less money), but Intel has given absolutely better performance in games which is why most veteran gamers have Intel. In the new generation of AMD, however, it overtakes Intel in every measure and review so the current recommendation is to go for AMD. Of course that could change in Intel's new generation if it surprises, but it probably won't. Intel has "fallen asleep on guard" in recent years and is now stuck with outdated technology that is hard to change. In addition, due to a long list of internal problems, Intel has been pushed into a defensive state that is not easy to get out of: one of the most important factors in the chip's capabilities is its lithography (measured in nanometers), which is actually the density at which the circuit itself can be printed on the chip. The smaller the number, the better the resolution and more sophisticated electrical circuits can be printed on the same piece of silicone. This means more cores, more dedicated circuits such as a video encoder or video card, and less heat produced by the chip which is a limiting factor for its maximum speed. Intel's chips have been based on 14nm technology for years, which in fact does not allow it to make major revolutions but only fine-tuning what it already has - it has no physical space on the chip. The new generation it plans to release in another year will be based on 10 nanometers, while the existing generation of AMD is already working on 7 nanometers. Intel does not have a normal graphics accelerator technology (it tries but does not really succeed in competing with Nvidia or Bradown). AMD, on the other hand, bought Radon years ago. This means that Intel should (or at least wants to) spend resources on improving its accelerator instead of investing everything in bridging the gap with AMD. The most evolving market for processors today is the mobile market, at least in the private sector. Think about how many physical computers there are on average compared to some cell phones or tablets, and many people no longer buy physical at all because the cell phone is enough for them. Intel fails to take over mobile market: The market is dominated by Samsung on the one hand, which has its own processors, Apple on the other hand has just announced that it no longer uses Intel processors but creates its own processor (and Apple is much more common in the US than in Israel ) And by Chinese manufacturers on the third hand who usually do not buy Intel processors because they are expensive. Decrease in sales = decrease in profits = decrease in development resources. Intel has just started aggressively lowering prices. This is a move that stinks of despair - when you can not compete with the quality of the product you start to compete on price. The CEO of Intel resigned a few months ago. This alone indicates what Intel thinks of its position in the market. If I was not clear - go for AMD. The chances that Intel will be able to produce something significantly better from it in the coming years are low in my estimation. And I say this with great sorrow as an avid Intel user and advocate in recent decades. In order for Intel to regain market dominance it needs to pull a significant rabbit out of the hat and at the same time AMD needs to screw up quite seriously.
  9. If you are talking about a "serious" irrigation system (and not something small for a 3.5-pot window) and you do not want to start assembling a system yourself and get involved, I can recommend from my experience an American Hunter \ Hydrawise irrigation controller. Website: https://www.hydrawise.com/. It is a WiFi controller (not BT) that connects to the Internet and you can control it through its Android / IOS app from anywhere. It is not cheap, but its basic version supports up to 6 irrigation zones (electric taps) one of which can be defined as a master (i.e. as a main tap that closes the irrigation for everyone). He knows how to automatically adjust the irrigation to the weather in your area, ie if it rains, or the temperatures are low, or a certain amount of precipitation has fallen in the last few days, etc. He knows how to automatically reduce the irrigation proportionally or turn it off completely. It also has up to two external sensor connections - you can for example purchase a water meter that connects to the controller, then the controller knows how many liters each area consumed in each time period and even stop the controller if there is an explosion in the pipe and consumption is rampant. I bought the cattle on the "nuclear" network, but maybe sell in other places.
  10. The different "colors" of WD drives indicate their intended use. Although you can use any color for any purpose, each series has advantages and disadvantages that are better suited to its intended use (and of course a suitable price). The series currently are: Red / Red Pro - Designed for use within multiple disk (RAID) arrays and dedicated storage systems (NAS). It is built to work 24/7 (without shutdown) and provide good performance and high reliability with lower sensitivity to shocks. It is also noisy and overheated relative to other types and tends to be more expensive because it is designed for the institutional market. Yes, it will fit on a regular computer, but it's probably not the type you are looking for. Purple - Designed for storing photos and movies, usually as a dedicated disk for security cameras. Its uniqueness is that if it develops Bad Sectors it usually does so in a way that the image or movie in the wrong part will be decipherable (only pictures and movies!). It is a disk designed for a specific niche. Blue - the average "all-purpose" series. Medium speed, medium survivability, medium volumes and cheap price. Black - The series designed for performance. Medium volumes, good survivability, high speed and high price. This is the series from which you want to play games or to which you want to directly encode movies if you do not use an SSD. Green - The Economy Series. Large volumes, slow speed, quiet, energy efficient, cheap price. Good for keeping data that you do not access (and especially do not write to) often such as a movie archive. Very bad for files that you update frequently because it tends, for reasons of economy, to slow down when you are not writing and speed up again when you start writing instead of turning around all the time. Gold - the premium series. "The best there is" - more durable than Red, larger than Green, faster than Black and expensive accordingly. Maayan is an improved series that is intended more for the institutional market but not for NAS servers. By and large these are the excellent discs of the former HGST (Hitachi) company, which WD bought several years ago and recently incorporated their technology under the name Gold. They still sell almost identical disks under the name / series DeskStar, i.e. DeskStar = Gold with differences in the internal software of the disk (Firmware). By the way, two years ago WD announced that they were eliminating the Gold series altogether, and only recently did they decide to change direction and bring it back with HGST technology. Bottom line, do not buy Red or Purple. If you want a backup disk and archive only for you on Green, if you are looking for something generic for any purpose (backups, daily use, etc.) buy Blue and if you care about the speed of the disk and / or its reliability (which will last a long time without glitches) and / or you Want huge volumes then invest in Gold. You probably do not want Black because it is especially good for high speed (computer games ...) - if you weigh it you are already better off Gold, unless you get the Black much cheaper. Hope this makes you some order ...
  11. Between the NX210 and the NX200 I would choose the 200 (original). The 210 has ventilation holes on the side of the front panel that do not seem to provide enough for normal airflow and unlike the 200 it is not possible to put fans on the grid upstairs. In addition, both the side and front panels are made of tempered glass (which you hate), and the fans that come with it have constant and strong lighting that cannot be controlled from the board or button without buying an Antec RGB controller (costs like another case). They are also without speed control (will always rotate at full power and maximum noise) and require outdated MOLEX connections in the power supply that no longer exist in new supplies. Once upon a time there really was enough of one fan. With the years and the advent of multi-core processors they have started to consume more power and heat up more, and in addition today software programs expect more powerful processors and therefore "grind" them more i.e. produce heat. I have a computer with an old processor and board (currently in upgrade processes) and the processor has 6 physical cores (12 logical cores). A decade ago, when it was bought (I tend to replace parts in my computer over the years instead of throwing away the whole computer and buying a new one), it came with one simple Intel fan on it and ran everything without stuttering or overheating. Today I had to cool it in water cooling (already upgraded twice) and it is still at the upper limit of temperatures. This is the main reason why the garden is replaced, although in terms of performance it functions better than many quality and new systems I have seen, at least until it warms up. When I open a browser and background software only (Windows, antivirus, drivers, ...) it is at an average load of 20-30 percent, while 10 years ago I was able to open Visual Studio, Office and a serious computer game at the same time and not reach 80% consumption CPU. Today when you buy new processors, the manufacturers (Intel and AMD) no longer bother to include a CPU fan in the package, whereas once only people with crazy systems had to buy an After Market fan for the CPU. Times change. It could be that if you do not add ventilation everything will work fine and there will be no problems. Or the computer may heat up so the CPU will slow down and barely agree to turn on and your drives and memory will die after a few years. Of course if you turn on the computer for short periods of time in a well-air-conditioned room and do not overload it it will survive better high temperatures than if you work on it 24/7 in a non-ventilated room at high load.
  12. You can, even though I'm trying to wait for another case or go to another store. Like I said it's not a bad case - Antec usually makes reasonable and cheap cases. The main problem with the case is that it will get very hot and this can create problems - it will not help to put a super powerful fan on the CPU if it does not have air to move. If you still want the case The original I recommend you buy 2 120mm fans and put them on top of the chassis (not front!) So they will let air in through the net. NOCTUA produces powerful, quiet and relatively cheap fans but if you do not get their fans then take the fans with the most airflow (CFM) you can get in this size (120mm). The rear fan that comes with the chassis is aimed for venting air. This solution will keep the CPU and memories at a reasonable temperature.This solution will not cool well Strong graphics card (any card that contains one or more built-in fan) If you want to buy in the future - if you go in this direction you will need to either replace a case, or add 2 fans in advance to let in air , Set the fans up to let out air and disassemble the front panel.
  13. You have quite a few requirements and some contradictions. You want a package in the range of 200 to 300 shekels (power supply comes separately unless it is a "combine" like the Chinese), a specific store and reasonable quality. These requirements alone limit you to Antek or the simplest models of Colemaster or Corsair. I guess about the actual prices because there are no prices on the site unless you sign up. You are looking among these models for something with 3 front usb ports, without glass and without lights. In addition you are looking for a perforated front panel or with fairly large openings for air. The candidates are: 1. What I proposed. All the lights are in the fans and you can replace fans or turn them off and get a black computer. By the way, the glass there is actually acrylic plastic (hard glass is expensive to manufacture and does not exist in the cheap models) so it is not fragile. 2. CoolerMaster mATX Master Box Q300L. It is a tiny case (but should fit your board - microATX), with "glass" (acrylic plastic) and only 2 USB ports but without lights and with good ventilation. You will need to add 2 140mm fans (as opposed to 3mm) but larger fans make more wind with less noise. Includes air filters. It also has a big and slightly more expensive brother called the Q120L but I do not see what it adds to you. 500. Corsair 3R Solid ATX. No windows (there is a version with but I do not think it is) or lights. A bit challenging in terms of ventilation, but I hope the space on the sides of the panel is wide enough to let in enough air. Only 270 fast front USB ports. Need to add 2 3mm fans. It's starting to get more expensive ... it's not that there are no more "serious" packages in the mirror; "Office cases" are usually sold by companies that specialize in the business market and sell ready-made computers. It is assumed that if you are looking for a case yourself, it is a sign that you are assembling a computer yourself and you are looking for something "beyond" a simple black box. As for memory, speed is indeed limited by the board. It can be increased by overclocking but it is not for such a computer. The speed in the chipsets determines how fast information can be transferred from the memory to the processor, while the CL (CAS Latency) determines how long it takes to request the information from the memory (the delay between the information request by the processor and its receipt). The smaller it is, the faster the memory responds to the processor. By the way, this whole paragraph is completely academic since on a computer for office use you will not feel any difference.
  14. I do not know the specific store from which you are buying and I am also not a price expert - I just went into some well known online stores and looked at the prices listed there. Most stores list the NX200 case as 180+ to 190+ NIS, and you have seen the NX240 price link. I estimate that your store should buy the products at about the same price as their competitors need, so they will sell you a similar order of magnitude of prices. I personally do not like stores that hide prices because I think this is an indication that they can not or do not want to compete with objective indices so they go down to the tactic of "call us and we will try to convince you with nice words and no written promises" - if they sell a good product at a good price there is no reason to hide That's it. But that's just my opinion. By the way, "chassis + Chinese supplier" should turn on a red light. A supplier gives a number of different voltages to different parts of the board, but the only voltage that really matters, because most computer parts use it, is 12V. 550W is often written on the power supply because it is the total voltage it supplies, but when you get the power and read the fine print you see that only 350W of it goes to 12V ... If you look at the CoolerMaster power supply specification you will see that it actually supplies 550W , But only 450W of them are in the line of the 12V so it's the registered power. Long live the small difference. The sorrows of fashion today. In 2021 to sell a chassis you need (according to the manufacturers) to add glass and lights. Antec specifically designs enclosures in this way but they are also among the few manufacturers that produce objectively good enclosures in this price range. The good news is that if you do not see the lights you can turn them off or not connect them to the board - this is a separate connection from the fan itself. Some manufacturers produce less colorful packages, but few serious manufacturers produce cheap and even less well-known packages in Israel. As for "big noise" it's quite subjective. There are people who are super sensitive to noise for whom every fan is a jet plane, and there are those who do not mind connecting a real jet plane engine to a computer if it cools better. Usually cases that specialize in quiet operation should be sealed (so that noise does not "escape") and then they are not good for cooling, and vice versa. I tend towards ventilated and "noisy" cases because a computer needs cooling and because if the case is sufficiently ventilated the computer will not heat up. The speed of the fans and they will be quiet.You can always replace the fans with quiet fans (Noctua, be quiet) but this will increase the price.As for memory, all the manufacturers you mentioned are known as quality.The main thing that matters (besides cost, memory volume and will physically fit the board) is Memory speed (MHZ, high is good) and turnaround speed (CL, low is good) Since you are talking about a work computer and not a gaming computer with overclocking, you probably will not feel the difference. Still, if I had to rate the different manufacturers ( Subjective - others might disagree with me!), I would say the best Corsair, followed by GSKILL and finally Crushell.
  15. I checked the board specifications and it supports one connection (up to 2 front ports) of fast (relatively) USB3.0 and 2 connections (up to 4 front ports) of slow USB2.0, so in terms of board you are covered. By the way, regardless of the front ports, the board comes with USB ports on the back that are not limited by a case. It is less convenient to access but allows you to connect things that you do not disconnect often, such as keyboard, mouse, printer, etc. Regarding the case recommendation: The case is not bad, sure Not for less than 200 shekels, and will deliver the goods. You do not need something crazy with water cooling etc. for office work. Note that it only comes with one fan in the back and it is not enough (I recommend you add): no matter how powerful the fan you put there You can not suck a lot of hot air out of an airtight box or push a lot of cold air into it. You might want to consider the Antec model NX240 https://antec.com/product/case/nx240.php. It comes with a front mesh (i.e. flow Free air) and 4 RGB fans for an additional NIS 30 https://www.tms.co.il/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=103385, which is less than the cost of additional fans. Too bad it does not have an air filter , That means you will occasionally have to open and clean dust, but in this price range there is a limit to what can be achieved. , Are: Buy the 450W power supply. It will suffice you for the current configuration, without the addition of a video card. Buy a 550W power supply from the same manufacturer or another quality manufacturer (CoolerMaster, Antec, be quiet !, Corsair, Asus and probably some more I forget) and it will also insure you to buy an office video card later (not a gamer card!). I recommend you consider such a provider even without adding a video card due to the quality issues I mentioned above. If you still want to enable a future gaming upgrade you will need a more powerful supplier (again, from a reputable manufacturer). nVidia recommend for their most powerful video card today, the 3080 RTX, a power supply of at least 750W. Since they tested it on an Intel processor that consumes twice your own energy and / or assuming you will not buy the hungriest card on the market, 2W should be enough to secure you for a future purchase of a gaming video card. Note that my recommendations relate to the current situation in the market: if you want to upgrade another 650 years I do not know how many components and cards will be produced then will consume. Editing - Just to avoid confusion: The change in my recommendations regarding the vendor stems from the understanding, after you have said which board you are using, that you intend to use the video card built into the board and maybe add another one, gameric or not. This is in contrast to the option of a board without a screen port to which are added a number of PCIe video cards that consume more energy.
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