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About ha

  • Birthday 01/01/1980

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Zone Freak

Zone Freak (3/6)



  1. About two years ago I bought the MegaRAID SAS9260-8i to build two RAID0 arrays with my old hard drives (2 * 3 and 2 * 4). I tried to install it on my new system (ROG-STRIX-Z390) and it never worked properly, its control software is a crappy HTML page that half the time did not recognize the disks. My new system was not really used so I took out the card and replaced it with another simple 4 channel RAID card. This week I tried to assemble it again and again the problems started, at first the WIN10 did not recognize it (a problem I encountered in the past that was solved by replacing the slot) and after a few attempts the card just started beeping until I just flew it. Is there a recommended ticket for the price of 100-150 NIS? What is important to me is reliability / stability and high transfer speed, not much more than that (the discs will be used to store 4K movies)
  2. So I ended up buying a 2620T WD4 ​​from Amazon. Works well and I did not have any problems, it fell to the floor several times (the fucking cable is so short so the disk is "about" on the computer ...) about a meter high and survived. Transfers 3-80 MB per second, which is more or less the transfer speed of the SATA disk from which I copy ... amazes me every time again, until now I have used disk drawers with SATA disks for backup but with such a copy speed I probably will not need more In them.
  3. I am looking for a 2TB backup disk with a 2.5 "USB connection (which does not need external power), I have seen some suspiciously cheap products (for example 1TB / 2TB Portable External Hard Drive Disk HD High capacity SATA USB 3.0 Storage Device Original for Computer Laptop | External Hard Drives | - AliExpress) at a price of about 100 NIS ... -Is it real? - From what I have seen all the cheap disks require that the formatting be done in FET32 only and not in NTFS so as not to damage the disk, what is the reason?
  4. I am looking for a 2TB backup disk with a 2.5 "USB connection (which does not need external power), I have seen some suspiciously cheap products (for example 1TB / 2TB Portable External Hard Drive Disk HD High capacity SATA USB 3.0 Storage Device Original for Computer Laptop | External Hard Drives | - AliExpress) at a price of about 100 NIS ... -Is it real? - From what I have seen all the cheap disks require that the formatting be done in FET32 only and not in NTFS so as not to damage the disk, what is the reason?
  5. Following Corona we work more from home and I thought a (partial) solution to the security issues would be to use a disk-on-key with software such as SysKey or something similar and also came up with the idea of ​​using a disk-on-key with a fingerprint reader to increase security. I was looking for some material on the net but did not really understand how to use it properly. As I understand it, the computer is unlocked only by inserting the key and pressing the finger on the surface, as long as the key is inserted. The computer will be usable. - Is there an option to require re-identification (by fingerprint) at any given time? - Is there a password manager that keeps the passwords on the disk-on-key and requires a fingerprint every time it retrieves a password? -Is it possible to "disassemble" the disk-on-key into separate disks, each with a different fingerprint? Meaning that one key could be used by different employees with different computers or different accounts on the same computer. -How to duplicate / back up the disk-on-key? -What is the recommended device? We do not need a lot of memory, but the key should be reliable, capable of detecting a fingerprint even in imperfect situations (moisture, dirt, etc.) and durable (that will survive one or more washes and work even after getting very dirty)
  6. If this is what you ask for, then this is what you pay for. In my humble opinion, if they demand more than a thousand on an old (new) mouse it means that there is someone who will pay the required amount for it. A year + I found it by chance for 600 NIS on eBay, my order was delayed a bit and I received an apologetic email from the seller that everything was sold ... DA, the fact that it is outdated does not make it bad, on the contrary. (I curse the WIN10 every week anew, at home I work with the 7 and enjoy) Thanks, I did not think of that. Right now, my dilemma is between paying hundreds of dollars for some final inventory elimination from some shelf of someone who somehow has one left that has accumulated dust or paying $ 100-150 for repairing the two mice. The G604 will remain if none of the options are exercised. Thanks anyway.
  7. Nice offer but still it seems (in the eye) not enough, I would be happy to find a store that sells it and allows it to run before buying because after the previous sophisticated mouse I bought according to the recommendations I realized that a mouse should first feel comfortable in the hand ... again, I do not mind paying Such a sum for repairing my mice, I am looking for a professional who can perform a repair (a rarity in our time) and who can be trusted. If they survive me for another 8 years it seems to me enough. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G700s-Rechargeable-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B00BFOEY3Y/ref=psdc_172487_t1_B00XTG9JSG I end up with this model for more than 8 years and so normal if it's hard for me to work with another mouse, it Fits me as a glove next to
  8. I called Gold-Top, they haven't had this mouse in a long time. They claim that the link contains Google's cash and not the actual page. I placed an order from the Aitech Store free of charge but a request for a phone charge, we will see if they will call next week. Any case I would love for a recommended lab name.
  9. I have already bought suitable switches from omron the previous time. By and large, this mouse is pretty hard and the AP, which has taken quite a few blows and falls from me, is still functioning excellently. It seems to me worth investing 150-200 NIS in it for repair, because the expectation is that it will survive for at least another 5 years. It took me about half an hour to replace the circuit breakers and I'm not a specialist technician. Yes, this is exactly the mouse, I have never seen it sold in the country at such a price. But thanks anyway, on Sunday I will check if it is real and if so then I will order two new ones. "I'm the breed that settles for the classic 3." I do not know whether to envy or pity ... DA, where to use the middle button? When I program I map all the function keys to the mouse buttons, you will not believe how much it simplifies the writing and dubbing process.
  10. Thanks, but that's really not what I need. The G700 has more than 7 additional programmable buttons (except the main two) (for each app individually, something I only saw in Logitech). Do not even want to think about moving to such a limited mouse. I bought at the time a not cheap mouse with five buttons, after less than a day it flies into a drawer. DA, at work I use the G600 (10 more buttons + SHIFT) to write code and debug, the G700 is not enough ...
  11. I've been using Logitech's G700s for over ten years and this is my second mouse from the same model. The mouse itself is excellent (except for the rechargeable battery that comes with it) in terms of uses but the switches with which it comes are screwed and the top buttons (right and left mouse keys) start to break down every five to six years. A year ago they started making problems (double pressing, stopping pressing the button, etc.) but they disappeared but last week they came back and it drives me crazy ... the previous mouse (G700) that suffered from the same problem I tried to fix myself according to videos from YouTube with the electronics lab that was For me at work, the repair did work, but something went wrong with the mouse's optics and it did not move properly. It is very difficult to get such a new mouse and it costs more than a thousand so I prefer it to be fixed. Anyone know of a lab that can perform such a repair? Or a reliable technician you can trust? (I think I've asked this before but I did not find anyone)
  12. I did not formulate well. Copying files from RAID0 consisting of two half-terre M2 to another RAID0 consisting of two half-terre SSDs is performed at 250 megabytes per second. Copying those large files between standard mechanical hard drives (with a lot of free space and which have been differentiated) is done at about 130 megabytes per second. It seems that the acceleration is due entirely to what RAID0 is and not to the flash technology ...
  13. So I return to the subject. And now, speed. I added the cooling fan to the RAID0 with two M2 M65 and the temperature is less than 1.35 degrees, and CrystalDiskInfo reports a speed of 0 GB per second. But ... copying files from RAID0 to RAID250 is only 0 megabits per second. CrystalDiskInfo reports that both RAIDXNUMXs pass gigabytes per second in tests so why do I barely get a quarter of that in real work?
  14. Bought Q3279WG5B at my job after discovering that it is the cheapest big screen possible (remind you, Alfia for a 31 "screen ...). I assembled it today and there it was discovered in the CD box that includes the i-Menu as it appears in the user manual. Which includes two monitors and he did recognize the Q3279WG5B, in any case the options in the software (horizontal / vertical position, frequency) are not active there either ...
  15. I purchased AOC Q3279WG5B a few months ago. In large, a screen is tolerable for a cheap price, but a number of things annoy me there. -In the user guide (I downloaded from the network ...) it is written that there is a CD containing the user guide, drivers and i-Menu. For some reason the CD was not in the box ... -I run WIN10 and after installing i-Menu (which I also downloaded from the network) I see Versia not in the user manual, which I downloaded really ugly and I would prefer the version in the user manual. Where do I find it? On the AOC level screwed-down site to download something you need to insert the screen model and for some reason the Q3279WG5B does not appear legal and is nowhere ... 😥 - My system has two monitors Q3279WG5B and Del U2715 connected. When I start the i-Menu it connects to Dell and I find no way to transfer it to the AOC. Ideas? - When I unplug the i-Menu and turn on the i-menu, I see that some of the options listed there (horizontal / vertical position, frequency, etc.) are not OP activities that are monitored and can be done through the menu (with the click of a button), what is their story?
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