eyalroz - HWzone Forums
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eyalroz last won the day on January 18, 2020

eyalroz had the most liked content!

About eyalroz

  • Birthday 01/01/1980

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  1. @ Roy.T First of all - thanks for the recommendation. Some questions about it ... when you say "low quality" and "poor performance" or "bad experience" - can you be more specific? What characterizes the switches offered in Drop compared to the more familiar categories of Cherry MX? I will seriously consider giving up the NumPad; But - how much did I have to add for a keyboard of similar quality, but 104 keys?
  2. No, it does not save you an exit. If the keyboard has a USB connection, the mouse can connect to it - whether it is in a set or not in a set. I personally would not want to connect the mouse to the keyboard.
  3. 1. Because there is no advantage in the set. It's just a keyboard and a mouse in one box instead of two. You might assume that the set will buy you a significant discount - I doubt that is the case. 2. Because the mice I recommended are not (?) Sold in the set.
  4. I'm happy with my Brother MFC L2710DW - though I print less than you. Its double-sided printing is successful and without any problems. Brother's support for Linux, when printing over the network, is not really the best, and it happened to me that I had to close the printer and reopen it so that it would receive a print instruction from a Linux machine; The driver is also not open source software and does not come with the kernel or distribution - it needs to be downloaded from the Brother site. But - at least _there_ is support for Linux, both in print and scan; This is not trivial even today. In particular, there is support for APT-based distributions (you can download DEB files). I did not encounter any problem scanning through the network. The device does not take up a lot of volume, but it does have weight, so do not plan to put it on a shelf without serious support. Also - the page feeder at the top is delicate and care must be taken not to place heavy weight on it because it seems to me that it will break in such a case. The price is really equal for each person, something like 800 NIS plus or minus, the cheapest Zil. I did not compare toner prices.
  5. Recommendation: 1. Do not buy a set, but separately. 2. In terms of mice - buy the Logitech B100 or alternatively Microsoft Basic Optical Mouse. The links I gave are for reviews in ZAP, and of course there are also links to stores. These are basic and common mice, have them almost everywhere. They are also symmetrical so that they will fit both right and left. I do not feel empowered to recommend a keyboard, but I would recommend you take a full-length keyboard and a standard and common keyboard set rather than an abbreviated keyboard.
  6. I am considering "diving" into the world of mechanical keyboards. My needs and preferences: 1. Type of use: Typing, not playing. (I do not have time to play in the last decades, unfortunately, and in any case I do not like games where the typing speed is significant ...) 2. Keypad: 104 keys and no less. Preferably no more. The keyboard and keys should be relatively wide - with no hassles or savings in place. "Normal size". You can slightly exceed the size if necessary. 3. Marking on the keys: I do not particularly care. Prefers English markings at least. It's nice if you have Hebrew, but can totally live without it. Also ready for a keyboard with no marks at all but prefers not to. 4. Keypad lighting: Highly prefer no lighting or lighting that can be turned off. Otherwise - white or whitish lighting - not "colored", and uniform across the entire keyboard. 5. SWITCHES: Oh, here comes the uncertainty. I'm currently typing on the Microsoft 200 1406 keyboard, five years in my opinion, and I'm used to it right now. There is noise in all typing, though perhaps not as in some mechanical switches. So I really do not need complete silence. I think I want a touch response on typing reception. So is blue suitable for me? Or maybe a fever? Something else? Please recommend. Price: Because I'm trying an experiment, I want to avoid a particularly large expense. That being said, up to $ 6 and more shipping - in case the keyboard annoys me and I have to get rid of it. If you tell me this is an unrealistic budget - can be flexible. 100. Key height: I want relatively high keys. Not low-profile. Additional Notes: I considered buying a Unicomp IBM Model M keyboard, for $ 7 + shipping (at the top end of my investment willingness), but could not decide if it was a good idea or not. I have no problem buying from lesser known Asian manufacturers if people here in the forum recommend. Ready to buy second hand. I perused a bit of the thread on the mechanical keyboards - but its beginning is 104 years old already, and it has 9 pages so I did not survive.
  7. I would recommend a general recommendation: Consider separating the printer and scanner. Simple and inexpensive printers are usually of poor quality, more likely to break down, more likely to have drivers in future operating systems, and so on. When the price goes up, the situation improves to some extent, and still not sure I would recommend one device. Anyway, today printers are pretty cheap. Another thing - note that there are scanners in CIS technology, where you can scan only what is close to the surface (and otherwise the image is completely blurred), and scanners in CCD technology, in which objects with "depth" can also be scanned. You have not said what your price range is so it is difficult to recommend you certain recommendations.
  8. How do you know what type of bearing is a fan (when it is not explicitly stated)?
  9. I’ve also been a membrane man ever since, thinking of trying a first mechanical keyboard (and somehow he doesn’t deserve to do so). Questions about the sharkon: 1. Is it possible to turn off these ridiculous lights? 2. How low is the low profile? Or rather - what is the distance that the dome of the key travels by pressing, until it stops at the bottom? 3. Why exactly was the red switch version that attracted you ("I could not resist")? 4. You're implying that high keys are always noisy ... but I remember it depends on the switches. 5. The keyboard is supposedly for typing, and you are focused on the game. 6. Are the dimensions of the keyboard a standard and simple membrane keyboard, or is it relatively narrow? (I do not like narrow keyboards)
  10. Forget nonsense ... The best computer seat is the one that will keep you upright and with an angle of over 90 degrees between your legs and back: pneumatic stability. It, specifically, costs 800 NIS. I purchased one 8 years ago, holds up nicely after 4 apartment moves including overseas and back. Although the sides of the upholstery have begun to unravel in the bottom cushion, it is perfectly fine.
  11. Selling complex second-hand computers is a hassle. From my very limited experience - there are very wide price ranges and very different expectations of different buyers. I would try to flip a bit in Hand-2 and the panel here on the site, focus on some complex systems, and run an "emotion-based" extrapolation to your hardware. And one more tip: get ready to sell for less than you hoped for and maybe less than you deserve for a very nice machine like yours. Used computers are a market of buyers 😞
  12. Does anyone in Haifa want to buy a drive with me, to get past the free shipping? I plan to buy one 500GB for me ...
  13. So, are you saying that to your knowledge - there is no advantage or disadvantage to internal versus external drive, thin versus thick? That is, drives' lifespan does not depend on these parameters? Of course at least you need at least 2 copies, but given that 2 copies are made - I want to choose the media whose replacement cost per unit time is smaller.
  14. I intend to purchase a magnetic drive (HDD) for backup, not everyday work. So ... after an external drive I bought for backup stopped working relatively suddenly after quite a while for my liking (about two years). First of all, I learned my lesson - from everything there must be at least two copies, period, otherwise there is no point at all. I'm also a little suspicious of compact drives (2.5 ") that are not in a shockproof case, because it seems to me that combining these two factors knocked me out last time. At any rate, I have two questions: 1. Do you think it's generally better to purchase 3.5" drives Backing instead of a 2.5 "drive for longevity, or the drive's thickness doesn't really matter? 2. Is it better to purchase a drive for internal use, then use a dock and / or chassis that turns an external drive into an external drive with some shock protection? If you have some recommendations on a relevant drive, it won't hurt, I would like a backup of about 4 TB.
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