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AMD ATI HD4800 series fan control manual


yfital

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At a good and successful time, you can fully configure (without FLASH) all parameters needed for the cards.

In my case there is a decrease from 80 degrees in original (with a fan of 17% I think) to 65-60 degrees, with a fan of 0% (this is 1000RPM, it does not recognize it).

The manual is valid for 4850 and 4870 (as I know), for the 4870X2 there are slight changes that I assume you will be able to understand alone, or, look at the original published guide.

Also note that this is the version of REFERENCE. I have no idea if it works on different versions (most of which do not need it at all).

Also, all the parameters given in the manual are 4870.

The manual was tested on 4870 with CCC 9.4

It is important! I assume that the card is in its DEFAULT mode - if not, I recommend that you revert to CCC manufacturer settings.

First of all - I do not take responsibility for everything written here, if you ruin your ticket somehow, your problem - this is a combination of several guides from the Internet and my attempt to make it work.

Guide translated from

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1345181

And some of

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=270486

And all kinds of places.

Step One - Required Software:

1. GPUZ - You can see where the degrees (in maximum detail of the items), as well as the current consumption and fan. We'll use this to monitor the card.

http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/SysInfo/GPU-Z/

RIVA TUNER .2 - We will use the software to direct the fan to work automatically - but better than the original

http://downloads.guru3d.com/download.php?det=163

- FURMARK .3 We will use to adopt the card well and good

http://www.ozone3d.net/benchmarks/fur/

ATI TRAY TOOLS BETA .4 - (now ATT) we will use to change the core clocks and memories (you can also change tensions, to my mind unnecessary).

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=270486

All programs work on XP and on , 32, and 64. (The tests were done on 64. )

ATT will throw an error on DRIVER SIGNING in 64 versions, but it worked for me anyway, probably for our use it's enough without.

Step Two - Fan Care:

1. Operate GPUZ, move to the second tab (SENSORS) and press the CHECKBOX of ... CONTINUE REFRESHING.

You will see a number of lines, what interests us now is this:

GPU TEMP - The temperature of the core. Usually (in 4870) with no changes in IDLE, it is approximately 75 to 80 degrees.

FAN SPEED (shown in percentages and as a number of RPM) changes as a result of the temperature of the core - until 30% is almost low, above which the plane is already starting.

For games, 40% is still reasonable for my taste (even so there is enough noise around).

2. This part is copied from

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1345181

Triggers RIVATUNER:

Switch to the POWERUSER TAB.

Click OK on the question of Are you sure ...

Looking for a line named

RivaTuner \ FAN (It is important! No Or ATI). Pressing the little Plus beside her.

Double click on the line of

AutoFanSpeedControl and insert the value 3.

clipboard15qm9.jpg

It is important! Close the software and reopen.

On the main screen, press

clipboard01el4.jpg

Go to the FAN tab and press the ENABLE LOW LEVEL FAN CONTROL

clipboard02vw9.jpg

Ask a question - press DETECT NOW.

Now we can start messing with the fan.

It is important! GPUZ should continue running in the background, so it will be easy to see if you made a mistake and the card gets too hot. From here on, it should only go down:]

Translation of the explanations about the options: (I will translate and use only the version of fan change against auto temperature - not static).

Please note that everyone's entries are listed below in an orderly manner.

If you can not change the values, repeat the AutoFanSpeedControl change and verify it! That you have restarted the software.

T_min - The point at which the fan stops becomes set or stops, and from here onward the speed of the fan begins.

T_Max - The point where the fan is set to 100%.

T_hysteresis - If T_min is considered less than T_Hys, we get the value of the fan completely stopping (ie, if we point to 0, T_Min will be a break of the fan).

The value range (by site) is 0 to 7.

PWM_ramp_on and PWM_ramp control how the fan changes its speed (sharply or gradually).

Recommended values ​​(for both) are 1.

PWM_hysteresis - I'm not quite clear yet, I'll deal with it at home, is it the principle of gradualism in which the fan begins with TMIN? (Explanation will be welcomed).

Recommended value - 0.

Spinup_cycle - It is important! Do you know that the fan suddenly roars for no reason and then calms down?

This is usually because the core was cold and reached T_MIN, which is the value to which the fan jumps (the DEFAULT is 80% - why?!?) - recommended around the 30%. I've changed to 20% and maybe downloaded even more.

Spinup_time - The amount of time the fan stays at the percentage we chose in SPINUP_CYCLE before it starts working at core temperature.

Values ​​- Write not to touch, I will try at home to increase it, perhaps it will soothe the angst of the fan even more.

And now the trick - setting the fan to change by (And this time, it makes sense, quiet and cool).

First of all

PWM_mode = 2, it means the fan to work in linear mode as we want.

Now the "complicated" section - you have to decide what you want:)

For example (from what I did with me):

I wanted the minimum temperature to be 65 degrees, which is the maximum of 95.

Also, I wanted the moment it came down from the 65 that the fan would stop (more or less) and the minute it came up it would not scream, so the SPINUP_CYCLE = 25%.

And that its speed while it is in T_MIN (defined by Duty_cycle_min) will be low - 20%.

The T_SLOPE (the linear equation according to which the fan changes its value) Computers by:

T_slope = 16 * (100-Duty_cycle_min) / (T_M-T_min)

In our case it exits 43 (circles).

That is:

T_Min = 60

T_Max = 95

T_Slope = 43

And the other Haggadot are:

PWM_mode = 2

T_hysteresis = 0

PWM_ramp_on = 1

PWM_ramp = 1

PWM_hysteresis = 0

Spinup_cycle = 25

At this point (at least for me) you should have a much more reasonable temperature (maybe a bit more noise - not to worry, you'll be treated soon!) Of 65 to 70 and a barely running fan (0 - 1000RPM to 25 - 1500 RPM -25% is the SPINUP_CYCLE).

For me it is fixed on 65 degrees and ranges from 1000 to 1500 RPM, completely silent.

Step Three - Handling Watches:

1. Enables OVER DRIVE in the CCC.

For ATT to work, OC must be "OK" in the CCC.

Turn on the CCC.

Jump to the OVERDRIVE tab.

Click on the lock (for those who have already clicked once, no need) - Press OK.

Put V on the ENABLE OVERDRIVE (even if it was already in place, the lock must be removed). And click OK.

2. Remember the ATT? After you have turned it on (it should be Auto after installation) you have a new button in TRAY - red.

Right Button -> HARDWARE

OVERCLOCKING SETTINGS

Here we will create two profiles, 2D (Windows, Etc.) and to 3D.

First, click the CHECKBOX of the INCLUDE CLOCKS IN PROFILE.

Start with 3D, it's pretty simple, just keep what you have now - if you want to be sure it's 3D mode, run FUR and check GPUZ:

The usual 4870 is 750 to the kernel and 900 to memory (I have no idea of ​​4850).

Save the current state as 3D.

Now, we want to create a profile for 2D and download the clocks ( It is important! The clocks I will mention here are To 4870 !!! I have no idea how much you can download the 4850 watches, I suggest you shut down everything else you do because it can stick the computer, not to worry, this RESTART will return to its original state).

I just downloaded and downloaded, more than I did, there does not seem to be much need:

I've changed the kernel to 500 and the 450 clocks - there's an annoying phase of the Nrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr So you can download again a little more, download, do APPLY etc ... it takes 2 minutes, but get to it:]).

You will save the profile as 2D and mark (LOAD SELECTED PROFILE AT STARTUP), and you will mark (perhaps only after making sure it is stable).

OK.

Activate the GPUZ and pay attention to the clocks (and temperature).

To change between the profiles (right now, manually) the right button on the ATT

HARDWARE

And they are supposed to appear below according to the name you gave them.

Change between them a bit and see that it does not get stuck and that it changes the values ​​in the GPUZ.

3. Last step - Set auto change between 2D and 3D.

Right button on the ATT

HARDWARE

AUTO OVERCLOCKING

Simply specify the ENABLE AUTO 2D 3D in V

Select the 3D profile and the 2D profile.

recommended! Go to the EXCLUDE list and add any programs you want to stay in 2D even if they are FULL SCREEN or use 3D, for example -

MEDIA PLAYER CLASSIC (there is no reason why they would use high clocks), etc.

At this stage we are done.

To check what we've done:

Enable GPUZ

Turn on FUR and let it run in STABILITY TEST mode. In a small WINDOW mode, you will see the GPUZ, raise the AA to 8 for fast heating.

The GPUZ should show In a situation that has always been ( 750 and 900 to 4870) and a temperature of about 75 with a fan around the 40%.

A little noisy right? But it is under your control in the settings of RIVATUNER, and beauty is ...

Close the STABILITY window (and the software, otherwise it does not always work) and see what happens on the GPUZ.

If all is done properly, the core should go down to 500, the 450 memory, the temperature to 65, and the fan to almost 0.

Totally silent.

It's my profile comfortable with him, playing some noise, but cool, and in any other case, total silence (and that's inside P182).

I hope you enjoyed it, if you need help, tell me. I'll try to raise it Have time (Sticky? : Silly: )

Good Day,

oak.

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The whole exchange of clocks "2d / 3d" (and more) can be done through the Rivatuner Task Scheduler. (Do not need the ATT for it)

(By the way, I know it's not related but in the case of Anodia cards you can do everything you recorded with system tools

Fan speed relative to temperature, and the creation of 2 clock replacement rules ... although many cards already have a built-in 2d / 3d switch for this purpose)

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The whole exchange of clocks "2d / 3d" (and more) can be done through the Rivatuner Task Scheduler. (Do not need the ATT for it)

(By the way, I know it's not related but in the case of Anodia cards you can do everything you recorded with system tools

Fan speed relative to temperature, and the creation of 2 clock replacement rules ... although many cards already have a built-in 2d / 3d switch for this purpose)

Right, I saw it now - verify, more simply with the ATT, but you can.

Anyway, this is for ATI no , You have an easy life:]

As for 4890, there should not be a lot of difference, I guess you just have to wait for a supporting version of RIVATUNER (if it does not support yet).

There should not really be a difference.

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Well, to your knowledge, I lowered the speeds to the core 300, 200.

The fan moves about 800RPM (completely silent) and the temperature is about 52 degrees! Even the VDDC dropped to 43 degrees.

Highly recommended (cold : Silly: ) To anyone suffering from the problem.

I certainly enjoyed the cold and the quiet.

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If you do to Bussy, I recommend not lowering the clock speeds (not that I had any problems), go around the 400 and 300. And if you really want to go wild, take the tensions down, but I do not mess with that :)

Of course you should do it first in the software, so in the worst case, you do Riestert and everything works out, in FLASH it's a bit more annoying:]

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Anyway, I changed body The Accelero Twin Turbo, which can not accept fan speeds from the graphics card: \

So I think I will give up the BIOS update, now the noise of the fans does not bother me, and the ID card temperature is around the 40 and the load does not pass the 70 ...

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Fun :)

I was just about to chaper myself for the holiday with the ACCELRO TWIN TURBO and some SCYTHE fans, it saved me 150 chess:]

The TWIN TURBO can not be connected to the card itself? Because I understood that it was possible? Does not have a small 4 PIN connection?

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It is he who has, but he functions very oddly,

When I installed it, I turned on the case with an open case for monitoring purposes ... and I was surprised to see that the fans did not start turning around at all.

I loaded the card a little, the fans turned but really weak, rpm zero, and then the card crashed.

I have no idea what it was, and from a Google search I found that there were some compatibility problems for some of the cards.

In any case, when the Accelero is connected directly to the supplier (this maximum RPM), it is significantly less noisy than the stocking cooling at 30% ...

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In principle, there is no reason not to - unless they change the screen's Haggadah so that RIVATUNER or ATT will not work.

Of course the values ​​you need to put are different because your fan is more powerful and perhaps different clock speeds ...

Besides, supposed to work ...

By the way, fixed 52 is really a pleasure, every computer cooled:]

Report if this works for you, I will add to the list cards that work on them ...

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