Where is the eyepiece of a central mini air conditioner? - Page 6 - Consumerism - HWzone Forums
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Where is the eyepiece of a central mini air conditioner?


chenrp

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The current of the compressor is controlled by a large relay usually found in the external unit. The panel transfers the small current to the coil of the relay

Except that the panel transmits the current of the fan in the internal unit which is a few Max A 'and the electromagnet for heat / cold exchange which is less than 1A

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  • 1 month later ...

At last the circle came.

Good quality images can be seen in the sales page

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221513192967?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

As I understand, you can connect the first relay in the column (to the white thread) and I can put the whole circle next to the condenser and not near the plaster in the living room.

Now I see that 220V is needed to operate the circuit, and the question of where to connect this voltage to?

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No, I still want full pictures from 2 sides

And a closer picture of the wires entering the existing panel (so you can see the colors more clearly) + the same wires at the point they go to different places or the connector in the air conditioner itself

You do not want to be able to control the compressor alone - if it stays on while the internal unit fan is off, the air conditioner will freeze and damage. To turn the main power off and on, control the main phase wire that goes to the control panel

Indeed, the entire plan is that the module will stand on the condenser in a gray electrical box, and outside it will remain only the existing panel as it is

There are 240V in the wires that connect the existing panel to the air conditioner - from which you will connect the relay module simultaneously. As in the circle I drew on the previous pages of the discussion

If you can see from the pictures of the sale that there is no fuse in the circle - there is a counter-fuse that is not clear what the flow of his maximum. The air conditioner is connected from the board to a switch of at least 16A and can be 20-25A, which can allow an 200A + stream before it jumps

So I would add a fuse at the phase input to the supply of the relays module - one that could disconnect a current of 200A. This means a ceramic fuse, not glass. The current that the circuit takes is less than 1A, put a fuse of 1A or similar

Fuse:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-pieces-250V-1A-Quick-Fast-Blow-5x20mm-Ceramic-Tube-Fuses-/181411728562?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a3cfb4cb2

A suitable fuse house (put it in the gray box together if the module):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-AGC-5-x-20mm-5x20-Fuse-Holder-Case-In-Line-Screw-type-with-22AWG-Wire-Cable-/151333741704?pt=US_Car_Audio_Video_Fuses_Fuse_Holders&hash=item233c31a488

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  • 2 weeks later ...

The lines of the relays are not connected to the rest of the circle

I do not like the fact that the entire back of the circuit is a whole conductive surface - it is close to the lines of the 240V, and in general the distances there are a bit too small. In such a situation I would name not only the 1A fuse to provide the module but also the main 10A on each phase of the command system (provider of the module, existing panel, and relay system)

I would add an 10A circuit breaker in front of the commands (you can put a suitable fuse, but I can not find in ebay a fuse house that I used to trust for 10A ... The thickness of the wires in the fuse house I brought for the 1A fuse is 0.3mm2,

also :

Bring Of the wire colors at the inputs to the existing panel (better than the previous one, so you can really see the colors) and the wires where they go in the air conditioner unit above the ceiling

Check that if the circuit does not receive voltage, the points are connected to BD or KD (ie whether B or K are NO or NC). I would not rely on the painting behind the circle because it is a mirror image of what appears in the datasheet of the relays themselves so I would not trust it completely

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